Captain Tropic's
Chain Saw Safety
If you have large trees in your yard and your home is located in a hurricane prone area of the country, chain saws are a must have item. This valuable tool has many uses, but as with nearly anything else can be very dangerous. Your first step to chainsaw safety is to make sure you read and follow the safety and maintenance instructions contained in the owners manual that came with your saw. I'm not sure why but men have a problem with this, we like to bring that new toy home rip the box open and fire it up just as fast as our fingers can move
Lets backup a little and think about which saw would be the best choice for your budget and circumstances. As I'm sure you've noticed there are a wide variety of chainsaw models and manufactures. Not only that but there are just as many options and each must be considered before the purchase of a chain saw. These options include horsepower, chain speed, bar length, weight, type of handle bar, type of cutting bar, and type of chain.
When deciding which saw to purchase, total saw weight should be one of your first considerations. Most retailers have the saws they sell on display. You should take the opportunity to pick up the models and feel how heavy they are. Remember you may spend hours working with your saw, so purchasing one that's too heavy will be counter productive. Another thing to keep in mind is that the saw will be a little heaver when it's full of fuel and chain oil.
Another consideration might be cost. You can go out and purchase a very expensive professional model and later on decide your saw is overkill and a lower cost model may have served your needs just as well. In the aftermath of a storm most of the clean up work will be on trees that have fallen and a smaller saw will do just fine. With a good sharp blade a smaller saw can cut up fairly large trees using several cuts. If you plan on cutting down large trees in a non-emergency situation a larger saw may be your best choice. The chain saw that you purchase should be of the correct size for the jobs that you intend to do. To use a chain saw with a 36" cutting bar for cutting 10" diameter trees is not appropriate. Conversely, a 10" cutting bar is not appropriate for cutting 36" diameter trees.
There are many different brand names out there and it's been my experience that if properly maintained all of them would serve you pretty well. Stihl and Husqvarna are manufacturers commonly associated with the professional tree cutting industry and I'm told they are very fine machines that will last for many years. The Stihls require metric tools and the Husqvarnas do not. I'm told the Husqvarnas are easier to work on, if you ever have to or want to. Homelite, McCullogh and Poulan are manufacturers of less expensive models. I own a small McCullogh and I must admit it has with stood all the abuse and misuse my friends and I could through at it. As I sit here writing this I've decided to retrieve it from the latest barrower and give it a good overhaul maybe even a new chain.
Some of the manufactures include a carrying / storage container. I suggest you pick a saw that includes one of these with the deal. They do a real good job of protecting the saw while in storage and while they ride in the back of your pickup. Protecting the cutting chain is just as important while in storage as it is when using the saw. The carrying case is much easier to keep clean and makes it nice to carry in the back of your car or van. Some have storage compartments for extra cutting chains, oil and adjustment tools. I like the idea of keeping all the stuff necessary to operate a tool or device all in one place rather than spend out all over the place in my workshop.
A photo taken from the roof of my home in 2004
SAFETY
The chainsaw may be the most dangerous hand tool that you can purchase. It requires no license or training to own or operate it. One article I read stated that an overall average of 40,000 injuries and deaths occur annually in the US. This figure is just the "reported" accidents given by hospitals willing or able to furnish the information. This figure does not include outpatient visits to the doctor.
Most chain saw accidents are preventable. The only answer to reducing these accidents is proper training and knowledge. You can gain experience the hard way and have the scars to prove it or you can do a little preventative reading. Unfortunately, all chain saws are made for right-handed people. A "full wrap" handle bar will help left-handed operators.
CHAIN SHARPNESS
Keep the chain sharp at all times. You will be able to tell the difference between good clean chips of wood from a sharp chain versus having to use too much powder with a dull one. When a chain becomes dulled, it will not cut straight. The best way to keep a chain sharp is to keep it out of the dirt at all times. Avoid rocks, nails, and wire, everything except the tree. After every third hand filing, the chain should be sharpened on a grinder, to true up the cutters, rakers and gullets.
The following items should be used while operating a chain saw: A hard hat, protective leg chaps, gloves, eye protection, hearing protection and "above the ankle" leather boots. Other necessary tools and supplies should include wedges, ax, large hatchet or maul, properly mixed fuel, bar oil, bar wrench, chain file with protective handle, small screwdriver with magnetic head, minor maintenance tools and a first aid kit.
STARTING OUT
Never start a job alone. You can get into big trouble very quickly. Be aware of your surroundings - weather conditions, terrain, wildlife, buildings, vehicles, power lines, livestock, and other people. It is important that you be physically and mentally prepared. You need to be up to doing the job on that particular day. You must know your limitations and be ready to admit that the particular tree-cutting job is beyond your capabilities. If you don't think you can safely do the job, don't start and get in trouble. You need the proper chain saw with the correct bar length for the job and have the basic protective equipment and additional tools.
STARTING THE SAW
One method is called ground starting. This method works all right if you have a small saw and small feet. Lay the saw flat on the ground, lock the chain brake, and turn the ignition switch on. Close the choke all the way and ensure the bar's tip and the chain are completely off of the ground and not touching anything. Place one foot inside the pistol grip; wrap one hand around the top of the handle bar, with the thumb wrapped completely around it. Pull the starter rope with the other hand. Some people hold the saw down with their knee on top of the power head but this is not recommend this as you can slip off and hurt yourself.
Another method is called groin starting. This method is also for small saws and those who are of stout heart. With the chain break engaged, turn the ignition on and close the choke all the way. Insert the pistol grip in between and about the mid-point of your thighs and clamped tightly. Grip the handle bar tightly with one hand, with the thumb wrapped completely around it. Pull the starter rope with the other hand. If you decide to use this method, I hope your saw starts easily and quickly. Do not try this with a high compression chain saw. You might hurt yourself.
I prefer a method called professional starting. Most professional operators use this method. It is also called the "sling start". Engage the chain brake and turn the ignition switch on. Close the choke all the way and rest the bar on a log or anything non-abrasive (not on rocks, dirt or the tail gate of your pickup). With one hand on the pistol grip and pushing the power head down quickly, pull the starter rope with the other hand.
The first time the engine tries to start, open the choke all of the way. Keep pulling on the start rope until the engine starts. For a well-tuned saw, 3 pulls of the starting rope should be enough. When your chain saw becomes old and worn out, it will probably take more than 3 pulls to get it going. Some high compression chain saws still have a compression release built into them. It is there for a reason and should be used when starting the saw. Turn it off after the saw is running.
The starting method called airdrop is dangerous. You basically drop the saw with one hand while pulling the starting cord with the other hand. This method has injured many operators over the years. The bar is completely unsupported and can go anywhere. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD!!!
KICKBACK
Kickback is what causes most injuries to chain saw operators and this is a good time to explain what it is and how to avoid injury. The condition, kickback occurs due to:
1) The physics of the spinning chain around the tip of the bar,
2) Putting the upper 1/4 of the bar tip in a bind or pinched condition (boring with the bar tip or hitting another object such as a limb, sapling or tree),
3) The violent release of pressure from the object being cut (limb under pressure or spring pole).
There is an "anti-kickback" chain available but it, too, will kickback, if you are not careful.
Ways to lessen the effects of this violent reaction are:
1) Use an "anti-kickback" chain,
2) Complete concentration as to the position of the bar tip,
3) Proper stance (feet apart with firm and secure footing, hand on handle bar, with thumb curled around it, other hand on pistol grip/trigger, position body so if "kickback does occur the chain saw will go over the shoulder.
Never try cutting anything with just one hand on the chain saw. Never try to cut anything above shoulder height.
BINDING
Gravity will cause any unsupported portion of a tree or limb to fall. If the bar and chain is in the wrong place at the wrong time, they will get pinched between the falling material and the stationary material. Pressure, in this same context, is a dramatic release of tension. When pressure is quickly reduced - by cutting - a severe reaction can occur. This reaction must be anticipated and avoided or severe injury and even death can occur. The way the wood fiber grows can also cause a bind or pinching effect especially when the chain is dull or you are using a slow chain speed. I won't get into wood fiber at this point.
There are four types of "bind" that you will have to deal with when bucking. They are as follows:
Top Bind---The top of the limb or log being cut will try to pinch your bar/chain. To deal with a top bind, you place your first horizontal cut in the top of the log. Watch the saw kerf very closely and stop this cut as soon as you see or feel the saw kerf closing.
Usually this happens at not more than 1/4 of the diameter of the tree. Remove the bar/chain and begin making the finishing cut from the bottom of the log up to the pressure release cut that you made from the top. Insert a wedge as soon as there is room to keep the bar from becoming pinched.
Side Binds---The limb or log being cut will try to pinch your bar/chain on one side or the other. Your bucking cuts should be vertical cuts beginning with the side that the wood fibers are compressed. Keeping the tree between you and your cut, make your first cut until you see or feel the saw kerf closing. Physically move to the other side and make the release cut on the stretched fiber side of the log. Use your wedges.
Bottom Bind---The bottom of the limb or log being cut will try to pinch your bar/chain. With a bottom bind you reverse the process you would use for top bind. Use your wedges.
End Bind---If the tree is laying on an incline, the force of gravity will try to push the upper log down and into the lower log, and pinching your bar and chain. Extreme care must be given as the tree is on an incline and the cut off log and tree could either roll on you or sweep you under it when the log is released. Wedges must be used because your bar/chain will definitely become pinched once the cut or cuts have been completed.
BUCKING
This is the term for cutting a piece of a tree's trunk off of the tree itself. This can be in the form of a log or a shorter piece for firewood. Two tools should be used when doing this operation - wedges and an ax, hatchet or maul.
"Size-up" must be performed, once again, before any cuts are made. Always cut from the uphill side of the downed tree. This will keep the cut off section from rolling down and over you. Make sure that the tree is not under any type of "side bind" as this condition can cause the tree or log to swing around and hit you. Many people have been killed because they ignored this condition.
If this side bind is present, your bucking cut procedure must be modified in order to release the bind before proceeding. Side bind is usually due to the fact that the downed tree is pressed up tightly against another object like another tree, a stump or a rock. When making your release cut, anticipate what both sections will do. If you feel that you cannot safely release the bind, use a piece of equipment to move the tree. Your life is more important than apiece of wood.
The following steps are necessary for bucking. You need to "size-up" correctly. Assume the correct stance, stand on the uphill side of the tree, place both hands correctly on the chain saw, and determine tree diameter vs. bar length relationship. If bar is shorter than diameter of tree, make an "off-side bucking" cut before starting. This is a vertical "bucking" cut on the opposite side of the tree from where you are standing. This will allow the bar of your saw to cut completely through the tree when the finish "bucking" cuts are made.
You need to determine type of bind present and where your "bucking" cuts will be made. Combinations of these types of bind are common. This must be kept in mind at all times.
Limbing
"Size-up" again is a term that must be applied before making any cut with a chain saw - and that includes limbing. You must look at what might happen in reaction to your cutting. Observe the limb to be cut. Which way is it leaning? Is it under pressure? Where is the center of gravity? Which limb should be cut first and in what order, from there on? What will it do after it has been cut? Do you have the correct stance? Where are your feet and legs in relation to the position of the bar and chain? What will happen to the bar and chain after the material has been cut? All of these questions must be answered before a cut is started.
Normally, when limbing a downed or a standing tree, you will start at the butt of the tree, with the bar and chain next to the trunk. Start cutting the limb from top to bottom, using gravity as a tool. If the limb is extremely long, you may elect to cut it at the half waypoint of the branches length. If it is extremely large in diameter or heavy, a small cut on the bottom of the limb will help keep it from splitting when the top cut is made. Care must be taken as this method can cause the bar/chain to become pinched if the bottom cut is made too deeply.
If a limb is under pressure (touching the ground or another object), extreme care must be taken when any cuts are made. Usually, reversing the above procedure is the accepted method. Depending on how you place your cuts, the bar/chain can become pinched; the released limb can spring back at you. Kickback can occur forcing the bar/chain back towards you.
Some people prefer to limb one side of the downed tree first and then the other. If you are walking down the top of the tree, while limbing, never cross your feet. Always keep the correct stance, as balance is most important. Falling off of a downed tree while limbing with a running chain saw can cause a condition called "stitches at the hospital".
FALLING A TREE
Always begin any chainsaw operation with the "size up" sequence. Look carefully at what is around you and have a clear picture as to what you intend to do. Regardless of the size of the tree, always keep asking yourself before every cut, "What will happen if..."
There are so many things you could say about this. I'm just glad it's not my house.
I observe the terrain for slope and possible obstructions and walk the area that the tree will fall to ensure that no surprises will be found. The weather, wind direction, and type (gusty, squirrelly, steady, or calm) can be your worst enemy or your best friend. I then look up at the tree from several directions to determine lean, broken, or lodged materials within the tree. Rot, splits - any other deformities may affect the way the tree will fall. On larger trees, walk to the trunk of the tree and look directly up. Rain, ice and snow all add weight to the branches and trunk of a tree. This will affect the center of gravity of a tree being cut and must be allowed for. On larger trees, use your hatchet or ax to thump or "sound" the butt of the tree. If need be, remove the bark. Sound all around the tree's base to detect hollow or unsound portions of the tree. This will determine how you will cut the tree and where it will want to go when cut at stump level. These unsupported portions in the butt of a tree can change the way a tree will react when sawn.
Plan primary and secondary escape routes. Check for anything that may be hanging in the tree. Look for snags, leaning, or hung up trees within a two-tree length area around the tree you wish to cut. These may fall at the same time your sawn tree does and you want to be aware of secondary actions. Also check for anything that may change the direction of the tree fall such as vines, other trees branches, or other trees.
Look for people and make sure that no one is within two and one half tree lengths of the tree that you are cutting. That goes for animals, buildings, power lines, and anything that might be hit by your falling tree. You must then determine what will happen as the tree goes down and after it hits the ground. You must also anticipate what might happen within the immediate area surrounding your work area. Flying debris has injured and killed chain saw operators and nearby personnel. You should begin by falling the tree where the wind and lean dictate. You should begin by standing on the uphill side of the tree; 90 degrees from where you feel it will fall. DO NOT work under the leaning or heavy side of the tree. The heavy side is where the branches are the heaviest or where there may be some natural curving or leaning of the trunk. This will cause the center of gravity to be shifted to that side. Using the bottom of the bar cut the selected face on the side of the tree where you think it will fall. There are four different faces that can be used - the Western Standard Face, the Open Face, the Humboldt Face and the Step-Cut Face. The Western Standard and Open are the ones to begin with. The Humboldt and Step Cut are best left to the Professionals. Let me explain the first two. Western Standard Face is two cuts. The first is a horizontal cut that cuts into 1/3 the diameter of the tree. The second cut is made above the first. You want to have an approximate 45-60 degree angle formed by the completion of these two cuts. These two cuts must meet evenly, leaving no "Dutchman" or separation of cuts. If a Dutchman has been made re-cut to get rid of it. The Open Face also requires two cuts but there is no horizontal cut. Make your bottom cut at an upward angle into 1/3 the diameter of the tree. The uppermost cut must be made so that an 80-90 degree angle is made when the two cuts meet. Again, do not leave a Dutchman. The next step is to check the direction that the face has been cut. This will more than likely determine the direction the tree will fall.
Check this out by using the "gunning sights" which are built into most saws. Insert the bar into the face cut all the way with the bottom of the bar against the wood where the two cuts come together. Aim down the gunning sights and if you cut your back cut correctly, the tree will land right where you are aiming.
BACKCUT
The "backcut" is a cut placed approximately two inches above the point where the two face cuts join. When starting your backcut stay on the same side of the tree you were on while making the face cuts. Cutting with the bottom portion of the saw bar, you should begin the backcut.
Once the bar is partially into the tree, stop and check both sides of the bar and make sure that your backcut is level. You want to do this several times during the backcut process. You also want to check to make sure that you leave enough "holding wood". Do not cut your holding wood all the way through. Holding wood is the remaining wood fiber left between the face cuts and the backcut. If this hinge of wood is cut completely through or angled, control of the tree's direction of fall will be lost. You can also leave too much holding wood. When cutting larger trees, leaving too much holding wood can cause the trunk to split upwards and abruptly stop the tree's momentum. When the tree stops, the uppermost part of the tree can break off and come slamming down around the base of the tree. Heavy, leaning trees should have the proper holding wood when making your backcut. If you are cutting a big tree insert a plastic wedge behind your bar to prevent the tree from sitting back on the bar and chain. As you continue on the backcut make sure that the wedge follows the bar in by tapping it with your hatchet or falling ax. Do not to drive it into the chain as this could cause the wedge to kick out.
ESCAPE ROUTES
When the tree begins to fall, remove your chain saw if you can. Move quickly down one of your two previously prepared escape routes. A primary and secondary escape route should be pre-planned before cutting any tree. Normally, the primary escape route is 135 degrees away from the intended fall line of the tree. The secondary is figured from the other side of the tree, once again, 135 degrees from the intended fall line of the tree.
Never run directly in the opposite direction of the fall line of the tree. Bad news can travel in that direction as well as in the direction the tree is falling. Do not take your eyes off the falling tree. Never turn your back completely on the tree. When the tree is on the ground wait for at least 30 seconds to allow falling debris to settle. Learn how to "read " stumps made by other chainsaw users. After you have cut your trees, take the time to look over your stumps and analyze what happened. This is the best teaching tool available to you.
HOW TO STORE
After you have used your chain saw, proper storage procedures must be followed if it is not going to be used for a while. The gas to oil mixture must be drained from the saw's tank. If this is not done, the gas mixture will eventually turn into a varnish and will plug up the carburetor. The engine will not operate properly, if at all and a trip to the repair shop will be unavoidable. A chain and bar cover or guard should also be used to protect the chain and anything that the chain may come in contact with. Consult your saws owners manual for more detailed storage procedures.
A QUICK REVIEW
Always work in an area free of obstructions. Avoid other branches and rocks. Make sure your clothing can't get caught in the chain saw. Keep the saw blade out of the dirt; this will dull the cutters, throw dirt and gravel. Be especially careful you don't cut your feet. Wear safety gear! Safety glasses, gloves, heavy boots and in some cases a hard hat. Your thinking over kill right? If your cutting limbs and trees you no doubt have a lot of other work to do to recover and help your family. You can't very well help them if your hurt or in the hospital. Here are a few more things to keep in mind:
- Keep children and spectators at least 30 feet away.
- Never operate a chain saw from a ladder or tree.
- Begin and continue cutting at full throttle.
- Cut one log at a time.
- Keep the chain properly lubricated. Fill the oil tank each time your refill the fuel tank.
- Clean the engines cooling system after every other refueling.
- Position your body to the left of the cut and away from the saw chain when the engine is running.
- Be particularly aware of chain saw potential to kickback, which can throw the saw's cutting edge back into your face or body. Striking the tip of the chain saw against any object can cause kickback.
- Use two or more cuts on logs larger that the saw's cutting length.
- Start cuts with the base of the chain. Pivot the blade at the base to work the blade through the wood. Never pivot on the tip of the saw.
- Do not use the saw in bad weather.
- Stop the engine before setting the chainsaw down on the ground.
- Don't walk all over your yard with the saw running.
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